Step 2:

Getting your hand dirty...

In step 2, I have admit, I am not the greatest mechanic, but I am surprised at the lack of information available to locate and id the FPR on the engine. So, to remedy this I am including a few pictures to show the way...

Part 1 picture shows what you will see when you open the hood...


Part 2 picture show what you will see after removing the plastic engine cover. To my surprise, there is only one torque bolt holding the FPR onto the fuel rail. You will want to release any pressure from the fuel rail with the pressure valve located at the top of the fuel rail on the left hand side. See pictures on my post for replacing the fuel pump for exact location.


Part 3 - Remove the vaccum hose to make room to remove the one torque screw (size 20)- !! Be sure to place a rag over the hole exposed after this step. The reason being, I learned the hard way that about a 1/4 cup of gas ran out of my fuel rail onto my engine after removing the old FPR - who know the fuel rail would be full of fuel??

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[Updated on: Sun, 17 February 2008 07:28]

Step 4:

When getting ready to replace the old FPR, have the new FPR ready for immediate replace.

- Lube up the o-ring of the FPR with Vaseline

- With the new FPR in one hand - pull out the old FPR and immediate plug the fuel rail and the gas running out with the new FPR. Work the new FPR into the fuel rail (it will be a tight fit).

- After the new FPR is in place, connect the top fuel input and then the lower vacuum tube.

- Next secure the FPR with the torque screw

!!!(Be sure to add some Loctite to the tread for some assurance it will not vibrate out when the engine is running - you'll be in big trouble then)

and clean up any fuel the spilled on the engine. I used a air compressor to blow out all the fuel I spilled then let the whole engine air out over night (a little anal, but I have had one to many cars catch on fire.


- After clean-up you are good to go. I recommend turning your key to the point before cranking 5 times to prime the engine. This will get fuel back into the lines you lost replacing the FPR - no need to bleed the system or worry about air bubbles.

And BANG! Your engine will turn over like the first day you drove her off the dealer lot.

I hope this information will be useful for those that run into this problem.

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[Updated on: Sun, 17 February 2008 07:27]

Is this the place where I would hook up a vacuum line to go to my aftermarket BOV?

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